Sigalas Aa Asirtiko Athiri 2012
|Region||Greece, Aegean Islands, Santorini|
The 2012 Aa is new branding for Sigalas' familiar, fine value blend-the former "Asyrtiko-Athiri" (75%-25%). Apart from the new label and the new name, the old, outlier spelling of Assyrtiko with one "s" has also been changed. It comes in at 13.5% alcohol this year. This bargain point in the lineup is sometimes (unfairly) easy to overlook because the blend rarely has the depth or pure power of the 100% Assyrtiko. It is not as obvious. It does have its own charms, though: typically, better aromatics and a very elegant presentation. This year, it also has fine concentration to go with its usual finesse, good aromatics and clarity. As always, it will be more approachable early on than the upper level wines tend to be. It is likely to drink well this summer (whereas the monovarietal will probably not really be ready). Crisp and reasonably long, with loads of personality for Santorini, it may be one of my favorite Sigalas blends. Does that mean the 2012 vintage is a great one? Not on the level of '11 or '09, certainly not…but given general consistency on the island, there will still be many fine wines. Plus, one thing it did do, at least at this level and at least for this winery, is give the wine some "oomph," without going too far (it seems more restrained than the 2010 version). Perhaps extra oomph is not always a good thing at the high end, where they already have enough. At this end, though-it may help make this impressive. While it is nowhere near as deep, certainly, as the '12 monovarietal Assyrtiko, it is perhaps more interesting and better balanced. Nota bene: other wines in the lineup were not quite as ready to taste-or in as much need of a "heads up" for bargain hunting consumers as summer arrives in much of the country. Those notes will be published together in the June issue. Drink now-2020.